Endurance training for mountaineering reddit. Shift to more low intensity endurance stuff.

Endurance training for mountaineering reddit. In short you don't need to run but if you do, you'll have better experience on the trip. It’s about mountaineering, but should be readily adapted to long slab climbs as well. I can't find much on the net about creatine and altitude and endurance sports. Strength won't really matter, but strength endurance might be helpful (not as important as aerobic endurance). I specialize in building strength and conditioning programs for endurance/mountain athletes and just wanted to drop a note to introduce myself. The outdoor season is not good where I am until beginning in early October, so I have time to do 2 more 4-week blocks before then. Check out Knees Over Toes Guy for a plethora of exercises to strengthen the knee. Thursday is project bouldering because it's sandwiched by rest days from pulls. Any anecdotal or scientific advice you can offer? Do you train for muscular strength or muscular endurance? : r/Mountaineering r/Mountaineering Current search is within r/Mountaineering Remove r/Mountaineering filter and expand search to all of Reddit Sprinting will build strength and long distance will build endurance. Sometimes it's about the feeling and there's nothing you can do at the lower altitudes. I would definitely try to hop on sport routes at least once every other week however. And in fact, it gives a pretty good idea of how to prepare a training plan (3-12 months) depending on your goal and training schedule. I've been using creatine for a while during general conditioning/weight training and can attest to its strength benefits (and weight gain). Any endurance training you do at this point will just make the hike more enjoyable and less of a push. Resist the "no pain no gain mentality. Renown climbing coach Steve Bechtel shows us how in this 3-part series. Separate strength and endurance sessions as much as possible, doing them on different days if possible. The best training for hiking and climbing is hiking and climbing. 11ds, 10 12. Expect carrying 20-30lbs, wearing mountaineering boots most of the time, rock climbing some steep terrain on the Gouter route, and paying ~$7k for the entire trip of 6 days (3 days of mountaineering practice of tying knots, crampon/ice axe training, and acclimating to the altitude). The 80/20 rule is a good rule of thumb for the breakdown. The plans are cheaper and have a lot of notes to follow. To maximize the benefit of any stock training plan, you should understand how to manage your training load and recovery. My thought is that it should be done by intentionally getting pumped and trying to power through it. Someone who runs 10 miles per day will have great running endurance. Training for the New Alpinism question: is Periodization (for both endurance and strength training) really that important for more entry-level and casual athletes interested in general fitness and working into mountaineering slowly? Let me start by saying there is a lot of great info in this book that is very useful for someone like me. Shift to more low intensity endurance stuff. Summed up, spend a lot of time developing an aerobic base by training in zone 1 (or zone 2 if you’re relatively new to endurance style training. RMI put me in contact with a training company called Uphill Athlete, which, from what I’ve read, is a really great Yea, I've started doing endurance sessions every now and then, but the problem is even more compounded during that. Jan 25, 2022 · Download the app. I'm very well aware that my own laziness when it comes to indoor workouts one day could very well break my neck (quite literally), especially with me getting older. Our bodies’ are frustratingly slow to adapt to a higher aerobic threshold (think: years), but can lose those gains in a matter of weeks without training. That's all I wanted to say, really. However, there are great forearm exercise that you can do that are low impact and great for endurance training. 8/5. I've done their Mountaineering Training Group twice and I saw an incredible amount of progress. If you are an endurance athlete on a keto/very low carb diet or you are interested in exploring the benefits of such a diet, this is the place for you. Have you considered mixing up your climbing? I’m currently looking into periodisation training and lots of coaches recommend doing a 6-week base phase focusing on aerobic capacity, technique and lower intensity/high volume. This is unrelated to actual rock climbing performance, but in general these machines are unreal for your cardio-endurance training. Can I get a critique on my fitness training for mountaineering? I think I have the most important exercises and lifts down to work the most important muscles for mountaineering. This complete eight-phase training series will coach you through specific workouts based on periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak climbing performance on the rock and in the gym. If you're into alpinism/scrambling, running, backpacking, or putting in big days on routes in the backcountry, it's an incredible tool. Currently I do ARC/endurance and 10 move linked boulders along with hangboard, and lots of hard bouldering on a board. During my peak mountaineering fitness I was running 30-40 miles per week, doing a lot of hills and aerobic threshold training. Would love to ask the community for any literature, or even anecdotal accounts of similar use of HR zones for ARC/endurance training in climbing. But wouldn't the optimal training be to climb a consistent powerful endurance route that one isn't able to do. I boulder in the gym 3-4 days a week, sessions are usually around 1. If you want to get into sports like climbing, gymnastics, or ninja warrior, muscular endurance is much more important as those sports are just a case of holding on as long as possible to the bar or wall etc. I am 12 weeks into my training plan, and the progression has been Dec 30, 2024 · The importance of aerobic training as a sport climber Before I get into training for endurance, let me underline that aerobic training, in some climbing-specific form, must be done year-round. (lower rep heavier sets don’t improve grip as Power endurance in climbing refers to a climber's ability to sustain powerful and demanding movements over an extended period of time. This study as well as some other sources indicate that intermittent sprinting may be more effective at improving endurance and performance, and this study also looks into the effectiveness of intermittent sprinting but compares its progress to plyometric training rather than a more conventional method of endurance training. I am about to start uphill athlete's 24 week training course for Denali in June. Resting is one of the most important parts of your training cycle and should be looked at as a critical part of improving at climbing. This and Jacob's Ladder are machines I wish every gym would prioritize. climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. g. Background: I'm a intermediate level mountaineer and want to get fitter to do more ambitious objectives and keep up with fitter climbing partners. Besides, easy zone 2 rides build aerobic capacity. I was reading on their website from Scott Johnston that ideally you should be Z1/Z2 able to talk while your legs are limiting you basically from muscular fatigue. 5 hrs of climbing, sometimes into the 2 hr range. Of course specific training like weighted stair climbing or training on a stairmaster or even hill walking is usually better . However, muscular endurance is built on a strong muscular strength and an aerobic base. Saturday is power endurance. Doing 4x4 endurance training and then leaving the gym feels bad because it only takes 45 minutes (including warm up time) Reply reply More replies Party-Ad6461 • Reply reply azuraith4 • If you're training for the 20+ movers, then 4x4s or circuits are a good idea. And it was only like $300, which isn't bad Evoke Endurance Mountaineering Plan Questions : r/Mountaineering r/Mountaineering Current search is within r/Mountaineering Remove r/Mountaineering filter and expand search to all of Reddit Training to prepare for mountain climbing I am a fairly overweight unathletic 30 years old guy who can't even do 1 pull up, but I have always wanted to get into mountaineering. The people advising you to focus on short, high-intensity training are misguided. For reference: I have been climbing for 3 years, training regularly for 2, spend most of my time outdoors sport climbing, my sport climbing pyramid is something like ~12 . As far as your training, I’d focus on aerobic endurance instead of anaerobic. Any training tips (aside from doing more climbing of course) ? When it comes to training power endurance, one often get recommended exercises like 4x4 bouldering and other types of circuits. Consider sprint interval training as a significant component of your endurance training, as it is less likely to interfere with strength gains. Welcome to Climbing’s yearlong Training Bible. Going to start coaching with an Evoke Endurance (half of Uphill Athlete post split) and interested to know how I should make the most of the experience. That's what the book "Training for the New Alpinism" that others have mentioned will tell you. It involves maintaining strength and technique while performing challenging moves repeatedly without significant rest. I do a fair amount of training on my own and roughly follow Evoke's training philosophy Between 2. General Question: in terms of physical fitness is mountaineering more akin to rock climbing or trail running? General question so answer it as generally or specifically as you see fit. The more you use fats as fuel, the more efficient the body becomes at metabolizing them. To the poster: It won't be easy to balance the strength training with endurance and mountaineering training, but it can be done. 5 weeks until objective, should I buy uphill athlete training plan? I have created my own training plan in the past based off of "training for the new alpinism. Basically as per title what's your thoughts on training power endurance on top of this? Am I best just training it on the lead up to good sport climbing conditions or is there benefit from training it more regularly? Unless you're training for speed (e. cs. Whitney, but live near sea level. As someone who cares about endurance (for hiking/mountaineering) you definitely want to train with high reps for endurance but you also need to occasionally throw in bouts of low rep, high weight training as well. So I've bouldering for two years and only started sport climbing recently. I would love to hear your thoughts, suggestions, or Are you a boulderer who wants to have more quality goes with the added benefit of better power endurance for sport climbing or are you a sport climber who boulders to improve power/power endurance for sport climbing? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. " As the top comments say, keep your heart rate and breathing low, keeping your breathing at a conversational level. He needed technique training, not hangboard training! In summary, at 5. Training endurance helps your body adapt to things like lactic acid management and also can improve things like dead hangs and grip etc. In this first blogpost, Tom talks about endurance; the different types of endurance training, what sessions to do for each, and how to structure your training to your specific style of climbing. But can I do more? Thanks in advanced for your answers! Hey friends, I am a sports performance coach (17 years of experience) and an ultra runner/solo climber and general alpine adventure guy living in Washington state. Your endurance seems pretty normal for someone who doesn’t tour fairly often / do other endurance sport in their free time. Throw some mobility in there and likely your knee pain will forever in your rear view mirror. Someone who walks 10 miles per day will have great walking endurance. Climbing-wise, roughly speaking, Tuesday is a light day either drills or slab because it's a beast of a lifting day. Your body won't have the peak burst energy, but since you mentioned endurance, keto is a perfect fit. You still need to run but it's possible to run at a decent level using the stairmaster for most of your training. My Reddit's rock climbing training community. 95% of people who post training plans on this sub are overtraining. I have a small debate with a friend about training forearm endurance. Around 2 hours climbing, 1 lifting. I might get downvoted for this but I feel like cycling has some carryover to hiking. I do a fair amount of training on my own and roughly follow Evoke's training philosophy Jun 9, 2022 · The goal of local endurance training is to prevent that shutdown of blood supply, providing your forearms with ATP, so fibers can relax and flex with each move. Why not buy the 24 week mountaineering plan from evoke endurance and schedule a couple phone calls with them to tweak the plan? Having six months to train for any type of objective doesn't seem outside of normal. MembersOnline • Tristan_Cleveland ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. 9, I struggle to see a lack of grip endurance as being a significant obstacle to further progression. I highly recommend Steve House's "training for the uphill athlete," or any material really that goes into detail on zone 2 endurance training. Sounds to me like your training involves a lot of high intensity training. I use "Training for the New Alpinism" as my main resource for training. If you've got the cash and care about training, I'd get The folks there have spent years studying research and trying training techniques to create a some really good content. Basically all of mountaineering is aerobic so it’s best to train in the heart rate zone that the event is in. This is my first post and I’m looking forward to your responses and help. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. So the advice here to slow down and focus on long, easy aerobic endurance training is good. With that in mind, if you're keeping the volume low enough, it's certainly possible to train 6 times a week. For most other kinds of power endurance boulders, that kind of training isn't very productive. I've read a couple of articles that mention 1 on 1 off endurance training, and see it listed in the crimpd app. It mainly engages the quads and also builds endurance in them, which is also one of the muscles that are recruited for mountaineering. Hi all, I am in a common dilemma where I have a trip planned to summit Mt. My question is, how can I improve my stamina and endurance without pumping out so quickly? My climbing partner advised to do laps on the autobelay in the gym. Endurance training is very recovery intensive, and gains (wrt to climbing) are relatively short lived. I recommend you try and get an experienced person to watch you climbing, and see if they can identify any technique problems that are holding you back. Likewise, climbers with big alpine goals should take their training seriously. How to Train Local Endurance The most popular form of local endurance training for climbers is called ARC training, which stands for Aerobic, Respiration, and Capillarity. Is there any real benefit to substituting something like long jogs or true stair climbing into the routine, or is the development of the aerobic endurance through long sessions itself the more important factor regardless of the specific exercise? While I never train for anything in the gym (while doing ultra trails, mountain climbing, ski mountaineering, etc), it's absolutely braindead to abuse someone for preparing for their dream project properly. bs, 2 12. What are your favorite exercises for training your forearms for local endurance? Of course I know this only goes so far, and good climbing technique will shift the load off of the forearms and onto the bigger stronger muscles. So, a commonly accepted paradigm is to build strength the majority the training season, then build endurance closer to performance phases to max out the usefulness of that strength. Is there a full detailed training program that I could follow to become fit enough to start? 15. One purported benefit is that it conditions your body to better recover when you start more intense training. Climbing at high altitude is much more about being able to make a slow hard push for 12+ hours per day. I'm mainly a boulderer due to location but like to keep up some endurance for occasional trips away (usually on AMA on 6/27 at noon PDT about Balancing ambition with ability, Managing fear, Getting started in mountaineering, Building a training plan,Whether hypoxic training works, Climbing advice for women, Planning for the 7 summits r/Mountaineering • r/Mountaineering • r/Mountaineering • r/Mountaineering • r/Mountaineering • Sep 30, 2023 · It's easy to build endurance on a small bouldering wall. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Are you following the book or the training plan from Uphill Athlete? If you are following the book and trying to distill a training program, I would keep it simple and buy a training plan from Evoke Endurance (Scott Johnston left Uphill Athlete to Stare Evoke Endurance). Muscular Endurance (ME) Training Hello everyone, Starting the ME portion of my training from uphill athlete which is 90 minutes, 60 stair machine, 30 10% incline Z1. I trained at sea level (terrible idea). Every workout I make sure to do core and cardio no matter the day. When you train for endurance, train purely for endurance. For those who ARC/endurance train, my questions for you are: As title, I'm trying to improve my sport climbing. Be aware that I am no expert so take my advice as that of just a random person on the Internet. as, 6 12. I mostly run and hike for long-endurance training, but my overall feeling about biking is that it is not as affective since it is not load-bearing and it doesn't train the small muscles needed for balance (you spent half of the time on one leg when running/hiking). What mix of strength, endurance, and tactics have you found to help you stay out on the rock for long days? I assume this problem is fairly common, but haven’t found many posts describing it. Workout is Mon-Thur On Saturday or Sunday I go for a hike/scramble/climb (Live in Colorado) In many ways I like the stairmaster better than running because you can burn a ton of calories and get a lot of high level cardio in without the pounding of running. Of course jogging, bouldering, and cycling could be beneficial for physical fitness but remember, physical fitness sometimes doesn't play a role at the altitude. I am not going to dig to find them, but there are numerous mid to high level powerlifters out there doing mountaineering from Rainier to Denali to Himalayan peaks. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I would recommend looking up aerobic base training and the three basic training zones of polarized training. However, I’m already doing 3 multi hour sessions of indoor climbing + 1 day of outside sport climbing a week. How do people train their endurance specificly for big 7000m/8000m mountains? What is beneficial to do? Running? Strength training? Cycling? I was just curious, thanks for the replies! Jan 7, 2019 · This series of articles was originally written for UKC, offering information and insight into different aspects of training. Just be careful that you don’t rely entirely on it for your mountaineering training. But my friend is convinced that doing ARC training (climbing up and down an easy route for half an hour) is the way to go for maximizing the resistance to forearm pump. Mountaineering lasts at least twice as long, 8-12 hours a day for several days in a row. 5 weeks until my objective, I am considering buying the 16 week plan, or the 12 week plan. you want to climb a mountain really fast) you're just building lots of endurance and getting your legs used to elevation gain, so you don't need any special or complicated workouts. The books mentioned above, the articles, podcasts and the forum on this website are invaluable resources to help you coach yourself to success. For endurance, cut out carbs and go keto. I have 15. After four months of training 2 or 3 times a week with a heart rate of 140-145bpm for 90 minutes (treadmill), I'm seeing huge benefits. Endurance can be built at different levels. Running and cross-training are great ways to build strength and endurance. This is the first week of the first of those blocks. How to incorporate power endurance training into sport climbing plan? Hi everyone, I’m looking for some feedback on this summer training plan–specifically block 2 session 1 and how best to train anaerobic capacity. Strength training is Strength training helps tremendously in making one more resilient for endurance sports…with proper programming and execution. Training For the New Alpinism has more concrete advice about managing the interaction of strength and endurance training. This will be my first 14er after having been on some pretty intense hikes, but that’s all. May 16, 2023 · Steep approaches, weighty loads, and full days make climbing in the alpine a serious affair. I think they are called dumbells rolls or something, but essentially you just hold the dumbell at the tips of your fingers and then just roll it up to your palm. If you're training for standard length power endurance boulders (8-12 moves with hard finishes), just practice climbing boulders that are 12-14 moves in the gym. Incorporate strength training into your base training). 5 and 3 hours on working days. Training for mountaineering focuses on building an endurance athlete by developing cardiovascular fitness (fitness of the heart and lungs) and motor fitness (particularly endurance, strength, and balance), using specific goals and following a defined timeline. And the coaches will help you tailor the program to fit your needs, e. Or is there specific value to the structure of bouldering circuits and the like? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I'm seeking advice on whether this is an effective use of my time. Welcome to /r/KetoEndurance. Nov 4, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. Running, hiking, etc. And yet! I'd like to work on local endurance too, just to improve my raw ability to stay ahead of the forearm pump. if your goals require fitness for mixed/ice climbing versus more non-technical objectives. I know from personal experience the problems one can encounter from altitude sickness, and was wondering if anyone has any tips/advice on how to train altitude when there are no mountains above 4000 feet from me within several hours. It essentially consists of 10 sets of moderate intensity/pump climbing for 1 minute with 1 minute rest. So if you’re interested in thoughts as to how to improve in a structured way - this is what I’ve found works for me: Running is very efficient in training endurance and extremely hard to replace. The book explains the topics in detail, including aerobic base, max strength, muscular endurance, recovery and so on. I’m climbing Rainier in May with RMI. The thing is most alpinism fitness training programs I’ve looked into require around 3-4 days/week of cardio and strength training, each session being several hours long. I’ve been doing research in to this area for my own training as a skier, trail runner and cyclist. I'll add my 2 cents about training re: endurance vs strength training, as I also did a c2c of Shasta (via Clear Creek) a few years ago along with other c2cs of CA 14ers. Having access to more personalized training, coaches, and other people was super nice too. These plans are not customized to any individual athlete. Nice climb and beautiful photos. Sport climbing is another good way to build endurance, but imo power endurance is more important for bouldering than pure endurance. Hi everyone, I’m new here and to the mountaineering world. Therefore I've got some pretty good grip strength but just after a challenging route or two I'm seriously out of power and struggling with the easiest of routes. " For simplicity I am considering just buying one of their plans. tujx pkvgqe eozwh uebs iwrbmdx qbukkxcx vqowcv vaw wlwjp ayfcp