Open hand vs crimp. Slowly over months 1-2 or so work full crimp back into your climbing regimen very slowly over weeks starting with low to moderate intensity and volume. Open hand vs. Like you said about the open hand, its easy if the hold is above you and your wrist is pulling down comfortably. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. Aug 25, 2019 · Continue to do finger rolls and open hand hangboard, especially if they don’t aggravate it to re-establish hand strength. THE FOLLOWING PAGES ILLUSTRATE THE DOS AND DON’TS OF CRIMPING, AND HIGHLIGHT THE ADVANTAGES OF USING MATCHED CABLE, TERMINAL AND TOOLING FROM THE EXTENSIVE TE CONNECTIVITY PRODUCT RANGE. . May 10, 2022 · Sometimes on very small micro-edges, a full-crimp may provide better traction or on larger edges an open/drag grip may provide a more restful alternative, but generally speaking, the half crimp is the way to go. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. Use chalk on your fingers to increase friction and practice open hand grips to get stronger. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. The crimp grips also help angle your finger tips down which can really increases purchase on smaller holds Jan 5, 2025 · Comparing notes with Probes earlier this week I can deadhang (2 arms natch) a small edge for 12 secs by dragging/open handing but can only half-crimp it for 4 secs whereas Probes reckoned it would be the other way round for him. Once I realised this, I tried to use an open-hand grip as much as I could, but my brain seemed to be hard-wired to crimp. Yea, my open hand is four fingers but I see half crimp as almost basicly a full crimp without the thumb. half crimp with and without the pinky involved? Open Hand Vs. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. Do you like open Is a standard crimp a more powerful way to pull on a hold, or can an open handed technique be just as strong? Having a problem with one of my finger joints so could be time to adapt. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Mar 27, 2019 · Drag (aka: hang / open-hand) All climbers know the drag or open-grip to be the default for pockets, yet it is often possible and beneficial to drag on edges. com/@partner__15?Gmail: xaoxiongclimb15@gmail. May 19, 2009 · Is a standard crimp a more powerful way to pull on a hold, or can an open handed technique be just as strong? Having a problem with one of my finger joints so could be time to adapt. Jan 4, 2024 · In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. Unsubscribe at any time. This provides very little contact with the hold and therefore is the weakest way to crimp. Open hand activated the deep muscles that have more mass than the superficial ones activated by crimp. Hence, the aim of this study was to determine how accurate climbers from different significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. After reading this I looked properly for the first time at how I was gripping. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Carla Zihlmann1, Paul Ritsche2, Andri Feldmann3, Lisa Reissner4, Martin Keller2, Peter Wolf1 Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. The half crimp and full crimp allow for a different variety of force application, and should be trained with that in mind. short pinky, open hand vs. chengisalwaysclimbing · Original audio May 29, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. As a beginner, stick to half crimps and open crimps, which means leaving your thumb off the hold and creating a 90-degree angle with your hand (half crimp) or fully opening it, hanging by your pads (open crimp). This position is stressful on finger tendons, so be careful. If you had a weakness at open hand it maybe wouldnt show that much in your board climbing. Full-Crimp #rockclimbing #bouldering #gymclimbing. It seems stronger to me but is it better? Certainly not always! There are times to close the crimp, and times to keep it open, I learn about embracing the open hand Jan 29, 2019 · For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Or do people tend to focus on just one grip type? Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. Same with the type of hangboard you're using, wooden vs plastic. Cheers Seconded. Justin T 19 May 2009 In reply to pdufus: Which to focus on/and train: 3 finger open hand grip vs 4 finger "semi" open hand grip I have been dealing with a weak ring finger for a couple of years now. Jul 16, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. I nearly always open hand the crap out of smaller holds. Jun 3, 2025 · Open hand vs. In a half crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle. In a half crimp your other four fingers are lining up on the crimp while in an open crimp your two middle fingers are crimping while your shorter ring and pinky fingers are in an extended open-hand grip. Using your pinkie engages more muscles in your forearm and back, so this grip type uses less energy and is great for long endurance climbs. I do try to train open hand, but on projects crimping is a necessity. pockets) or if I don't need to grip the holds with much force. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. Four finger half crimp 2. Full Crimp Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. Edit: to answer the grip types to train question a bit further. The bottom line is that if your half crimp max hangs are more than 20lbs different than your open hand max hangs, you probably have an open hand weakness that you need to address. Someone with more of a Return to Article Details Open hand vs. Half-Crimp: This is the strongest hand position, as Gravelle notes in a recent interview. Open hand puts less stress on the last joint in the finger, but takes much more force along the tendons and so it takes more training to get strong enough to do it. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Nov 18, 2023 · Instagram: https://www. A crimp puts you in a much better position than an open hand to pull through and move off of a hold. Sep 11, 2023 · 2. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Download Return to Article Details Open hand vs. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open Aug 14, 2021 · Excluding your thumb as you crimp puts less stress on your joints and tendons. Mechanics: This grip allows for a broader contact area with the hold. tenosynovitis: inflammation of the fluid-filled sheath (called the synovium) that surrounds a tendon, typically leading to joint pain, swelling, and stiffness. Also the fastest hangboard gains come from neural Are you looking for the best crimper for open barrel terminals? These are our top pliers kits for crimping those pesky crimp connectors. This position is good to train as it aids with injury prevention due to its low-pressure format. com/always__climb15/TikTok: https://www. Jul 5, 2021 · It is one of the most common and frequent injuries experienced by climbers. Oct 29, 2020 · Does wrapping your thumb over your index finger make you cringe? You may be missing out on some serious pulling Open-Hand Vs. Closed Crimp vs. Given how variable holds, wall angles, and body postions on climbs can be, choosing the correct way to grip Jan 28, 2011 · In that hypothetical situation having better open hand or half crimp strength would be more beneficial? If you were at 'full stretch' then you wouldn't be able to close to a crimp! Download scientific diagram | Closed crimp grip, open crimp, and open hand grip. What flexors are being deployed for the different grip positions? Are there mechanical advantages to the crimp vs frictional skin advantages to dragging/open handing ? Is it beter to specifically train to correct anamolous grip strength differences or to focus on the strong/natural grip (if uninjured) ? And most importantly which grip is the This will change how difficult it is to hold with a drag. Open-hand grip involves keeping the fingers spread, while closed-hand grip requires the fingers to be tightly tucked. As discussed previously, full crimping requires strength in the lumbricals and interossei in the hand. Learn when to use each grip and optimize your climbing experience! Jun 3, 2025 · Open hand vs. Beyond that I half-crimp everything. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Introduction Many climbers believe that they are stronger in the crimp position than the open hand position, but the crimp is linked to higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. If you had a weakness in your half crimp then you can see better improvements by training said weakness. Oct 2, 2023 · Some hand crimping tools offer adjustable crimping force and include a stepped ratchet system that ensures that the crimping process is carried to completion. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Nov 14, 2022 · The half crimp and full crimp create much more of this friction than open handed positions, so frequent crimping is the obvious culprit. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Carla Zihlmann1, Paul Ritsche2, Andri Feldmann3, Lisa Reissner4, Martin Keller2, Peter Wolf1 Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed -the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. Basic Crimp Techniques and the Components of a Good Connection PIDGTM Terminals and Splices Insulation Restricting PIDGTM Terminal SOLISTRAND Terminals Wire Barrel Functions (Closed and Open) Wire Insulation Variations Wire Preparation Proper Strip Length and Wire Placement Insulation Crimp Adjustment Dot Coding Crimp Inspection Double Action Hand Tool Which crimp tool [s] do you recommend to get for general (the above) crimping use? This would include signal terminals (<1mm 2 wire) and ferrules, horseshoe terminals, circular screw terminals and crimp-able power connectors. The open grip is often used on sloping holds. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. I feel most comfortable with the four finger open hands, and will try to focus on that grip for now. I am a professional musician and Half Crimp Perhaps the ‘Pièce de résistance’ of climbing grips, the ‘Half-Crimp’ is the most versatile finger position, performing well on crimps, ledges and slopey holds. Therefore, it's advisable to work on consciously adopting the safer open-hand position. May 30, 2007 · The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are exclusive to themselves. This has a In theory, the open handed grip exerts less finger lever force on the hold, using less forearm effort at the cost of power on smaller holds. Jul 16, 2019 · Do you know the difference between the crimp grip and the open grip? Are you confused about the difference between them? Be sure to check out the video to find out! Jul 13, 2021 · If these joints on your fingers are bent outwards, you are not crimping, but using an open hand position. Jan 4, 2024 · The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. Are you new to crimping? Not sure what the difference is between each crimping shape? Don’t worry—we've got you covered! In this blog post, we will review the differences between each crimping tool and help you choose the right one for your needs. Full crimp allows you to pull out on holds more, which can allow you to use delta to pull on holds, rather than engaging the shoulder and keeping the elbow tight to pull with lats. Dec 17, 2021 · Open-hand is useful due to the common nature of hitting a hold with an open hand. Learn when and how to use each technique to enhance your performance and conquer challenging routes. An open hand or half crimp have a gentler impact on your joints. Full and closed crimp have the greatest impact. Putting this in to practical terms, it would mean hangboarding with an open grip using only the middle three fingers as opposed to putting my hand into a possibly compromising position for the sake of using my pinky, Does anyone else have any input on this? TL;DR: Long vs. As you see the joints are in a fairly natural position with nothing being overextended. Feb 7, 2014 · Closed crimping is, without a doubt, stronger than open hand. Because this grip type relies more on the tensile strength of your finger tendons than on your forearm flexors, it is actually more efficient than a half crimp and is less likely to result in a pulley injury. I don’t train the full crimp just for injury prevention, but the other two are important to train. Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. Nov 7, 2010 · answered all above :) if you finding crimping with the thumb uncomfortable, go with the idea that Chris had - just drop it and crimp that way. Initially utilize open-hand grips as this grip puts less force on the PIP and DIP joints, then progress towards utilizing half and full crimps again as you gain more strength in your fingers. com Not only does it relate to the size of the hold you’re trying to grip, but open and crimp activate different muscle groups in the forearm. So I am trying to slowly train my open hand grip in climbing and on the hangboard. com Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. It reduces the strain on individual finger tendons compared to crimping. See full list on gripped. Surely you have hit a hold open-handed and found yourself stuck. Every crimping position has its application. Full-Crimp - YouTube About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket The open hand or 3 finger drag, half crimp, and full crimp. However, if they are bent inwards, your hand is in a crimp grip position. This is called a hyperextension of the first joint. The drag is a more passive grip than the half-crimp, relying more on friction and tension in the tendon than 'pure strength Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. Jan 7, 2010 · Training/Jens: The optimum finger crimp position differs from Hanging and Moving as they involve different loads and body positions. When I think about it I reckon when climbing I would tend to open hand that sort of hold to move my feet around but would crimp it to make the move. Crimping is a more "dangerous" hand position, but if you never train it it'll really hold you back in your climbing. Dec 19, 2015 · Ibid, p. Apr 5, 2018 · Hey all, I have been climbing about 6 years and have only recently realized that I hardly every close or half crimp smaller holds. It's also, without a doubt, more damaging to your tendons, so you should avoid it as much as possible. Closed-Hand Crimps When it comes to crimping in bouldering, there are two main grips to consider: open-hand and closed-hand. Was able to do max hangs at 130% BW half crimp, yet barely able to pull on at BW open hand. I crimp most of the time and haven’t been injured yet. However, the crimp grip is associated with higher pulley forces, increasing Discrepancy in crimp strength open hand vs. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. Intense campus boarding on smaller rungs can also play a role, or simply subjecting your fingers to excessive repetitive forces on the wall. Is there any reason I should focus on improving open hand strength? I suppose open hand gives you like another inch of reach and half crimping everything can lead to injury (coincidentally I have mild synovitis in Jun 3, 2025 · If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. All on the lattice rung 22mm edge. Guess it's something to do with forcing the 4 fingers to take all I plan on suplementing this with full crimp hangs (mainly density) on small edges and open hand pocket training. On the left is an open hand crimp. Instead of carrying on ignoring it and blaming it on hand morphology or whatever excuse started today at 80% BW open hand, and Jun 23, 2018 · The open hand grip, while not a power hand move like the crimp, works best on sloping edges where you get lots of skin-to-rock friction. The terms "open grip" and "closed grip" are often used when discussing rock climbing. If it is not completed, the tool will not open. Crimping ain’t easy. half-crimp: Do climbers assume differences in their own maximal finger strength that do not exist? Download In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. Feb 2, 2025 · Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. While you grab, start hanging and prepare for the next move, your brain will normally select a more open crimp position compared to your strongest possible more closed position for executing moves. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. This balances the load on your fingers much better. Closing off that grip provides more options to apply power. For ages I've had a massive disparity between open hand and half crimp. Never would I grab a hold open hand unless maybe on a side pull. When to Use We won't send you spam. Jun 3, 2025 · Abstract and Figures Many climbers believe that they are stronger in crimp finger position than in open hand position. Sep 21, 2022 · This places incredible pressure on your pulleys and can lead to injury. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. One downside is that a lot of energy is wasted cranking to a full crimp every time I hit a small hold. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. tiktok. I can't remember the article but one of the World Cup champions from the past few years said that he trained only open-handed and non-thumb crimping which was the secret to his success. Before you pick what type of crimper, you need to answer the following: 1. Open-Hand Grip (or Open Hand) Description: The open-hand grip involves keeping your fingers relatively flat or slightly bent, distributing the force across the entire surface of your fingers and palm. Drag is usually used to describe a 3 finger open hand grip. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. When to Use Half crimp vs. SOLDERLESS CLOSED BARREL TERMINATION TRAINING MANUAL THIS GUIDE HAS BEEN PRODUCED TO HELP YOU ACHIEVE A PROPERLY CRIMPED TERMINAL OR SPLICE EVERY TIME. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 Nov 20, 2023 · Discover the differences between the open-hand grip and crimp grip in climbing. I had to take a deep breath and The only time I use an open hand grip like 3 finger drag is if I'm forced to (e. Full crimp The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Sep 27, 2024 · The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the climber's thumb and Half crimp gets you better at crimping (which is used at board climbing quite a lot). Half Crimp vs. Climbing Handholds: Pockets To hold onto a pocket, you essentially use an open hand or crimp but with less fingers. I find myself inclined to use the open-hand position Grip positions used (one arm, not two as shown) during the maximal isometric finger strength protocol. Your hand remains open, not crimped. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. If you can fit two fingers in the pocket, it’s often better to use the middle and ring fingers, rather than a middle and index finger combo. 38. HX4® Open Frame Crimp Tool M22520/5-01 - Qualified to AS22520/5 HX4® accommodates Daniels "Y" series crimp dies Dies sold separately So you have one person practicing the full hand crimp too often and getting injured, and another person who is mistakenly identifying their closed hand crimp as full and doing fine. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. When holds become very small, the half crimp (or even a closed crimp grip) becomes more necessary as your hands need increased force to hold on. The raised knuckles exert far more force on the tendons in your fingers, making the likelihood of strain or tearing much greater. What are you crimping, and where are you crimping?2. The ability to keep you elbow close to the wall while pulling with an open hand can really limit how comfortable you are in open hand vs close crimp. Open grip: Your fingertips are on the edge and the rest of your hand is draped onto the wall. Aug 27, 2023 · Discover the difference between an open-hand grip and a crimp in climbing. My open hand has always been significantly stronger than my crimp grip, and although I exclusively hangboard crimped (and have had really good gains over the years) my open hand has always stayed ahead by about the same margin. Half-crimp has “the most carryover” into regular climbing. If this type of hand crimping pliers is used with the closed crimp barrel, the radial closing movement usually has no effect on the quality of the crimp connection. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. Aug 3, 2010 · Crimping is by far the most mechanically strong grip to use in climbing but it is also the most injury-prone hand position. It is also quite simple, with all fingers bent at a 90-degree angle (the pinky finger may straighten slightly) and the thumbs disengaged to the side of the hand. Learn the differences and when each type of grip is used. You can hold a crimp in two ways: Full crimp or closed crimp: You have sharp angles in your knuckles and your thumb is tucked over your fingers for extra power. Jan 31, 2022 · I know it’s usually more comfortable to open-hand, but if you’re serious about climbing as hard as you can, you absolutely have to be able to full crimp. instagram. What are some training routines to train half crimps? My problem is every time I half crimp a hold, my hand slowly opens up into an open-handed crimp. If an open crimp barrel is processed with this type of hand crimping tool, there is a risk that the open crimp barrel will twist in the die during the crimping process. Aug 15, 2017 · To open crimp, place a single finger pad on the hold and extend the knuckles as far as possible. I recognised that I default to crimping on everything except completely sloping holds. The pinky may be slightly straighter (because it’s shorter) and slightly gripping Three-finger drag This is the open-hand grip involving the pointer, middle and ring fingers. Simply take your little finger off and hook the first joints of the index, middle and ring fingers over the hold. from publication: Stress Distribution at the Finger Pulleys during Sport Climbing | The A2-pulley was modelled as a I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). However, open crimping is also the healthiest for your fingers as it causes the least amount of stress on your tendons. Specificity 2. Additionally, consider practicing static climbing while you are returning from an injury as dynamic movements place greater load on your fingers. Each grip has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it’s important to know when to I like to close crimps. The absence of the 4th finger is significant enough to warrant a separate name. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Conventional hand crimping pliers close radially. half crimp Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. g. I noticed that most of the holds on hard boulders outside are sharp, small, incut crimps which I do very poorly on due to the holds forcing a half/full crimp. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. The correlations with route grades were similar. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. In other words, the half-crimp is virtually a one-stop shop for grip training. Three finger drag 3. I am pretty sure this is from over full-crimping. If you get your fingers strong in that crimp position in a controlled environment, you'll actually be reducing your likelihood of injury when you really have to bear down on a crimp outside. Open hand training gets you stronger at open hand grip. laklv vkvcvv uzobiw fuczb fyqct crjbo zzbbzvu rgdp rduohia rzynh